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Construction Guide
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Construction Guide
If mold spots are not removed before applying primer, paint or colorant, they will penetrate the new coating and continue to grow, thereby damaging your painted or colored parts. Mold spots tend to grow in warm, humid and low-light environments. Carefully inspect the laundry room, bathroom and basement. If there are mold spots, you can treat them with a mixed solution made by mixing 3 parts of {TodayHot} water with 1 part of household bleach. Dip a sponge in bleach solution and apply it to the surface with mold spots and the area around it within 30 to 60 centimeters to ensure it is treated more thoroughly. The solution should remain on the surface for at least 20 minutes until it dries before adding an appropriate amount of it. Rinse the area thoroughly with water, then wash it with a mild laundry detergent solution, and rinse it again with water. When using bleach, always wear goggles, rubber gloves and old clothes. Do not mix bleach with ammonia water products. This mixture will produce toxic gas. A clean surface will maximize the adhesion of the coating and minimize the possibility of colorant seepage. For smooth surfaces like walls and doors, it is sufficient to wipe them with an old cloth or sponge dipped in a mild solution of laundry detergent. Rougher surfaces, such as cement, stone or tiles, can be cleaned with a bristle brush. Stronger cleaning agents can only be used in areas where grease and a large amount of dirt accumulate severely.
Fresh coatings on pre-treated high-gloss surfaces do not adhere well. Therefore, it is recommended to perform a smoothing treatment on all high-gloss surfaces to ensure the best adhesion of the primer or coating. Sand the surface with fine-grained sandpaper, such as #180 or #220. After sanding, wipe off all dust with a damp cloth. Chemical {HotTag} polish can also be used, but the operation process requires careful and cautious handling. If the polishing agent remains on the surface for too long, it will cause the old coating to soften and wrinkle. To ensure good ventilation, Windows should be opened to prevent the accumulation of gases in the room.
Before applying a material similar to new gypsum board to the new wall panels, make sure that all connections and repairs have been sanded smooth and the dust has been removed with an old cloth or vacuum cleaner. Then apply a universal stain sealing primer for interior walls.
Let the new gypsum board dry thoroughly. For local repair work, the drying time requires 1 to 2 days. For larger areas such as walls and ceilings, the drying time may take a week or longer, depending on the weather and indoor humidity conditions. Thick gypsum boards laid in an extremely humid environment need one month to dry fully. Once dried, all rough areas must first be sanded smooth with medium-grit sandpaper and then undergo secondary treatment with fine-grit sandpaper. Use a dry cloth or vacuum cleaner to remove all the dust on the surface, and then apply the latex primer for the stain-sealing interior wall on the gypsum surface. When grinding, it is essential to wear a mask and protective glasses.
Tile all areas that may have mold spots and check the joints of the cement slurry. Repair these places if necessary. Then, scrub the entire surface with a cleaner and a non-metallic brush, rinse and dry thoroughly. To ensure maximum adhesion, sand the surface of the tiles with fine-grained #220 alumina sandpaper and wipe the surface clean with a damp cloth. Use interior wall latex adhesive primer with high adhesion. When applying this primer, it is required to use a respirator and maintain good ventilation conditions. Before applying the topcoat, make sure the primer is completely dry. Before pretreatment, check the surface that has been coated for any cracks, peeling, flaking or loose paint film. Before applying a new coating, one or more of the following methods can be selected to pre-treat the surface depending on the degree of damage to the paint film.
Whether it is gypsum and wallboards or woodwork and ferrous metals, scraping is a traditional and effective method for treating flat surfaces. Triangular or elliptical scrapers are more suitable for scraping corner and circular surfaces. Do not chisel or carve, otherwise the surface will be damaged. Grind all rough edges in sequence with medium-grained and fine-grained garnet sandpaper.
Use a hard wire brush to clean with a wire brush. Be careful not to damage the base material. Once all the loose paint films have been removed, sand the surface in sequence with medium-grit and fine-grit sandpapers.
If the paint film only peels off slightly, the surface can be sanded in the order of increasing grit size, using coarse-grained, medium-grained and fine-grained sandpaper in sequence.
Chemical removers select the right paint remover for the coating and substrate you are dealing with. Since the remover is prone to damaging the paintbrush, a thick layer of the remover is applied with an old or cheap bristle paint brush. According to the manufacturer's recommendation, allow sufficient action time for the remover, usually 15 to 20 minutes or longer, depending on the thickness of the old coating. Carefully scrape the softened coating into the double-layer junk bag in the carton with a putty knife or a wooden scraper. If necessary, apply another layer of remover and then wipe the surface clean with a paper towel, newspaper or a special scrubbing pad. Before using these products, make sure children and pets leave the work area. Cover the floor and steps well and remove the plants, carpets and furniture. After completion, handle the waste carefully in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. There are low-odor alternatives to powerful solvent removers, but they may take several hours to complete the same task.
